Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Pringle of Scotland Ready-to-Wear F/W 2012

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All photos taken from Vogue.com

For Alistair Carr's second ready to wear collection, the designer was thinking of a punk-sophisticate. His muse, a girlfriend from when he was twelve who had a similar style to his collection. A questionable colour palette of baby blue & pinks, pearl greys, camels, scarlet and burnt orange ended up working well. The collection included- shifts that had an asymmetrical shape from the placement of the print or colour blocking; a turtleneck sweater with a shriveled, ruffled neckline; heavily tailored coats & jackets towards the end; and dresses with strategically ribbed areas that looked like dozens of seams in a 3D/graphic appearance. It's a little eighties kitsch, almost Nan Kempner, that pulled off with unusual charm. As to whether the results go well sales-wise is another question.
- James Gerrard 
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Tuesday, February 21, 2012

Acne Ready-to-Wear F/W 2012

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All photos taken from Vogue.com


Last season was a revelation for Jonny Johansson & the Acne house, one he continues into his fall collection. The designer found inspiration in a number of artists that dealt with body & proportion- Andre Kertesz, Hans Bellmer & Hanneline Rogeberg. In comparison to spring which saw the larger proportion emerge, this collection was treated to constructed elements with parkas & cropped sweaters taken to extremely large sizes that still manage to have shape. Almost every look was brought back in at the waist by the large belts, except some of the baggy pants that had a corset attached. Other highlights came from the PVC pants, neck braces, mink hats, rivets on the leather dresses the tough little shoes. With so many other designers working on the over-sized look, this would be a good time for Johansson to develop new ideas.
- James Gerrard
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Jonathan Saunders Ready-to-Wear F/W 2012

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All photos taken from Vogue.com
 
Moving away from his whimsical spring collection, Jonathan Saunders went for a more tightened silhouette for his latest collection. Call it luxe-equestrian from the skinny rider pants and three-buttoned rider jackets in hue-coloured geometric & static prints, they were the big number this season. His romantic side came towards the end in floral embroidered dresses that ranged from sheer to woolen, some matched with a baggy preppy sweaters. Other highlights included- the quilted woolen dresses; the pleated, floral printed shirt dresses; and the little visors that some of the models sported. We've seen Asian influences & baggy-look trends in New York, but I believe that once Milan hits we may see the rise of an equestrian chic. Time will tell.
- James Gerrard
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J.W. Anderson Ready-to-Wear F/W 2012

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All photos taken from Vogue.com
 
'Chamber of Isolation' was the name of Jonathan Anderson's latest collection. The designer was thinking of an awkward modernity, to which went hand-in-hand with Anderson's twisted boy-kitsch aesthetic. Within a year we've seen the J.W. Anderson label rise from emerging to finding solid ground, already having produced a pre-fall collection and his paisley suits are supposedly going fast overseas. This season the suits came in padded versions of white nylon & pinstriped, some matched with the fisherman hats that made a reappearance from spring. There were skirts, suits & singlets that cut to the side made of PVC in beige, blue & burgundy, and crinkled a-line skirts that came in a houdstooth-pressed textures. If this is what Anderson holds up for the rest of his career, it looks prominent.
- James Gerrard
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Marios Schwab Ready-to-Wear F/W 2012

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All photos taken from Vogue.com

For fall, Marios Schwab was thinking about femme fatales, the dominance & sexuality they possess. Opening in a range of day wear dresses & hats the skimmed at the eyes, they were treated with interesting necklines that either dipped low or spread to the side. From there came other dresses in a perforated leather lace, which also featured on a sweater. It was impressive, but not compared to the likes of his evening wear- patterns of spirographs & harmonographs that reminisced to Man Ray's aesthetic appeared on lace & Chantilly skirts, intricately-gathered tulle and embroidered thread of chiffon tops. The true workmanship, and the most elegant number, came from the closing gown that was a reflection to an infamous dress of Dietrich's towards the end of her career- a sheer white dress with beaded embroidery that hides her privates with a teal-leaf jeweled neckline. This was one of Schwab's strongest collections in seasons, of which I hope to see more of.
- James Gerrard
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Friday, February 17, 2012

Calvin Klein Ready-to-Wear F/W 2012

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All photos taken from Vogue.com
 
Each season is a new direction for Francisco Costa, one he doesn't steer away from. In the past we've seen mid-calf slips and sculpted shapes made in triacetate, but this season was all about  cinched waists. Coats flared with silver cummerbunds bringing it all in; same goes for the dresses with flared skirts that were tightly fitted; and woolen evening wear with reflective mesh overlays, cut at the knees that gave a nice shape to the models. All around it did seem the collection had a darker edge then what we've come to expect from Costa, as the designer mentioned he was inspired by the Post Modernism: Style & Subversion 1970-1990 exhibition in London. The New Wave edge read to the sophisticated edge of Rooney Mara's style, who was sitting in the front row today. The label may be best-known for its strong sex-appeal, this was a nice fit for the cooler season.
- James Gerrard



Proenza Schouler Ready-to-Wear F/W 2012

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All photos taken from Vogue.com

The latest collection from Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler sees the boys creating a visual expedition around Asia. Two trends have lead this season so far- baggy looks & Asian influences, of which McCollough & Hernandez incorporated both. The first several looks were ivory & off-white pieces in baggy shirts, pants and over-sized jackets that read like karate gis. From there came the weaved leather pieces on skirts & outerwear inspired from baskets they found in Bhutan- the double-breasted coats with an off-centred collar were a particular favourite. It did read a little Balenciaga circa spring 2010, re-imagined into an orient infusion. Finally at the end came the drop-waisted, brocade dresses and quilted jackets with embroidered birds on the front bound to be a red carpet frenzy. After the ladies & pinup girls of previous collections, it's nice to see the boys returning to a cool-urban edge we know them best for. The one thing that's here to stay is the artisan influences that I look forward to seeing more of.
- James Gerrard 
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